Posted by: knitknigel | May 17, 2009

A Conjugal Visit

I jumped the camino today. Shocking news, but then you knew all about it because I told you yesterday. Got up this morning and had breakfast with my fellow Pilgrims then said my goodbyes as they all (I thought), left on their journeys. I took a little longer over my packing because I didn´t have to get on the road. Hung around the albergue which was a very nice one. Last night we all had a meal together in their dining room – a thick fish soup, a communal salad, then a leg of chicken with potatoes, a good bottle of red wine and flan for dessert. Turns out the pool boy who was cleaning out the pool yesterday turned out to be the cook too.

I asked directions to the bus stop in Belorado and one of the hospitaleros said he could draw me one, because after all he was an architect and specialized in urban planning. Good for me – the map was very easy to follow and the bus stop was only about three blocks away, so not so hard.

I spent the morning hanging around in cafe-bars because the bus didn´t arrive till 12:00. I had a cafe con leche and a croissant first then ordered a second cup of coffee just as the owner brought out a platter of mini-bocadillos. I immediately took one of the tortilla española which was still warm from the frying pan. Hmmm.

After a third cup of coffee I decided it was time to move, so left that cafe and went to another one nearer the bus stop. Had coffee there and then walked to the stop itself where I found another 11 pilgrims waiting for the bus. Their were two couples with babies walking the camino. The Irish couple I´ve spent some time with. They are off to Leon so they have time to finish the camino. They are pushing the baby in a stroller on the camino! The other couple are from Australia and they are carrying their baby on their backs. The other takes the big communal pack! Hard work. And there are albergues where they can´t stay because babies are not allowed. Theoretically they would disturb the other pilgrims if they cry. Too bad they don´t ban snorers, but then I might be tossed out too. As someone said, it´s not very Christian – no room at the inn for babies here.

The bus trip covered two days of walking – about 48 kilometers, and took 50 minutes. Whee. When I arrived I saw Geordie standing against a wall waiting for the bus to arrive. It was lovely to see him but he wanted to put me back on the bus because I haven´t shave in over a week. Some conjugal visit this will be, smile.

I´ve got tomorrow to discover Burgos, the place where I had my blisters tended to on the last camino. The doctor told me to get some Pho – om for my feet when I get here at a pharmacy or a physio clinic, so I asked him to write it down for me – and he did, in big letters – F O A M. Hmm, wonder if that´s a trade name.

Geordie and I had a nice menu del dia today – wonderful grilled leeks and wild mushrooms as a starter, and bacaloa with peppers for the main course. And Cheese pudding which is like a thick sliceable custard, Delicioso.

Adios for now. It´s nice to be resting my feet.


  1. glad you guys are together, and glad that you are making out ok. i have been enjoying being a voyeur in this trip and hearing from both of you… and what you’re eating and drinking. i’m jealous. one of my father’s favourite stories is that i was “made in spain” because i was conceived in madrid. i know, too much info… maybe next time we have wine together i will tell you. Just really glad to hear your updates…

  2. I am glad you two are travelling together again so you can take care of yourselves. That seems to be a lot better in my thinking. Besides, it is easier to worry about you when you are both in the same place.

    More snow today and a heavy snowfall warning between around Jasper. Snow between Red Deer and Edmonton. Can I tell you how much this sucks? So when you talk about how hot it has been for your walking you know you aren’t getting too much sympathy from here.

    Shave – and I hope your feet get better soon.

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